Food Archives - Susan Jagannath

Makalidurga, Morning Dark, and the Quiet Art of Finishing (Even When You Don’t)

Susan Jagannath — Sun, 22 Feb 2026 00:13:24 +0000

If you want to see what a writing deadline looks like in the wild, go hike Makalidurga trek Bangalore with friends.

Not the “reel version” where everyone looks effortlessly heroic and nobody sweats or wheezes or stares into the distance calculating the nearest loo like it’s a life-or-death expedition.

The real version.

The version where you start, of course, with food.

The Breakfast Ritual (and the Eternal Question of Toilets)

We slipped through the early morning dark, collecting our little group of four like precious pages you don’t want to lose. The road still belonged to the night. Street dogs yawned. The city was quiet in that rare and precious moment that takes you back to simpler times.

Then we stop for breakfast—because no one I know climbs anything on an empty stomach, especially not a hill in a National Forest with rocky opinions.

We pull up at the only restaurant open in the early morning, an Udupi restaurant in Yelahanka: idli, vada, and cautious coffee (cautious because coffee is always followed by that very practical thought: Where is the bathroom and how far is it and will it be open and will it be… civilised?)

Even in a familiar place, I found something new: the glorious Mangalore bun — sweet, soft, slightly mischievous. Like the kind of sentence you write when you stop trying to impress people and start trying to tell the truth.

Note: Yelahanka is a very familiar place – this is where two of my children were born. I reckon I gave them a gift – not just born in Bangalore, but specifically, Yelahanka.

Writing lesson #1: Newness isn’t always a new destination. Sometimes it’s a new bite in an old restaurant. Sometimes it’s a new line in a story you’ve told yourself a hundred times.

The Group That Keeps You Honest

We met the rest of the crew—assembled by White Magic trekking group (I’ve trekked with them before, which matters, because trust is a kind of oxygen). It wasn’t just the four of us, but nearly thirty of a larger group – and we all had to say hello to each other. All happy and cheerful – for now. What a lovely surprise to meet up with another hiking friend, Anjana had walked the Camino Invierno with me a couple of years ago.

Here’s what friends do on a hike: they keep you laser-focused.

Not by yelling motivational slogans. Not by posting quotes about “conquering mountains.” Because no one conquers anything but oneself.

They do it simply by being there—one more pair of footsteps, one more shared bottle of water, one more “you okay?” that you can’t shrug off casually.

Writing lesson #2: Accountability doesn’t have to be harsh. Sometimes it’s just friendship with hiking shoes on.

The Railway Line, and the Small Joy That Cracks You Open

Before the trek properly began, there was the railway line. A train slid past—calm, steady, unbothered by our human drama.

And honestly? The delight of it. That clean clack-clack rhythm. That sense of movement going somewhere with purpose. It made the morning feel cinematic in the simplest way. The wild waving to bemused passengers rubbing their sleepy eyes in the hot anticipation of reaching their destination.

Writing lesson #3: Progress doesn’t need to be loud. A train doesn’t announce itself with speeches. It just moves. Just write that story, that page, that sentence today.

The Climb: Rocky, Hard, and Unimpressed by Your Plans

Then the hike. It was hard. Rocky. Hard again. The kind of trail that doesn’t flatter you.

And somewhere along the way I had that moment that every writer recognises—when the body says, “No,” and the mind says, “But you should.”

My asthma and cough caught up with me. Breathless. A bit giddy. Vertigo? Possibly. It wasn’t the Himalayan trek altitude kind of challenge, but my lungs didn’t care about technicalities.

After a while I told Anju, “Leave me.”

Not dramatically. Not as a tragedy. Just practical. I needed to stop without dragging the whole group into my slow-motion struggle. So I sat in the thin, scrappy shade of a thorny bush—the kind of shade that’s more philosophical than effective—and watched the world move past.

Writing lesson #4: Sometimes the bravest thing you can do is pause. Not quit. Pause. Start again. The difference is everything.

The Green Spots: Perfume, Valleys, and Permission to Take Your Time

I climbed again—higher, then higher still—stopping whenever I found green. A patch of mercy. A small pocket of cool.

And then: the perfume of the flowering jalagiri (Weeping jasmine -that scent that makes you believe the world is kinder than your breathing suggests). With its rich drooping bunches of white flowers, it filled the air with a fragrance that speaks of India – Deccan India. In February every pocket of soil and water had one of these trees. the leaves green and rtender, and the flowers dipping in luscious locks all over the tree.

Below me—green valleys, rich with banana and grape vines, glinting lakes like someone scattered mirrors into the landscape.

It pays to stop and take your time.

It’s a hike, not a competition.

Say it again for the part of your brain that treats everything like a scoreboard.

Writing lesson #5: You don’t earn your story by suffering fast. You earn it by noticing.

The Stories on the Trail (and Why Talking Helps You Finish)

I talked to everyone passing me.

That’s my favourite way to climb anything—feet moving, curiosity awake. People shared scraps of their lives: first trek, tenth trek, heartbreak trek, “I’m here because work is eating me alive” trek.

In writing, we call these “character details.”

In life, we call them “human.”

Writing lesson #6: When you’re stuck, talk to people. Stories are everywhere. You don’t have to invent the whole world alone.

☀️ The Heat, the Scramble, and the Gentle Decision to Stop

All the while, the heat climbed like it had its own ambitions.

The path turned into bare rock scramble—hands-and-feet work, the kind that demands attention. And I realised: I could push through, but why?

So I decided to stop.

It was okay. Really.

Not a collapse. Not a defeat. A decision.

I shifted my goal from “reach the top” to “be fully here.” I admired trees and flowers, and watched for birds. And yes—did I tell you I had binoculars?

Apparently, binoculars are a social event. Passersby stopped to borrow them and gasp at tiny winged miracles.

Writing lesson #7: Finishing isn’t always reaching the peak. Sometimes it’s completing the experience you actually came for.

Down Again: Another Train and the Sweet Relief of Descent

Then down.

Another train.

Because the world likes to give you symmetry when you least expect it.

Coconut water appeared like a blessing—cold, sweet, immediate.

And then—a lovely surprise: meeting my old friend Anjana.

She said, “This was not an easy trek.”

I agreed, with the tender satisfaction of someone whose lungs have filed a formal complaint.

Writing lesson #8: Naming difficulty is not negativity. It’s honesty. And honesty is what makes writing land.

The Real Photo, the Real Day, and the Real Point About AI

Now let’s talk about the part that matters to me as a writer, and maybe to you too—especially if you’re trying to finish something and you’re flirting with the idea of letting technology do the heavy lifting.

I’m not anti-tech. I’m fascinated by it. I use AI writing tools and I enjoy the cleverness of it. But here’s what Makalidurga reminded me:

Do the hard yards first.

Walk the mountain.

Build the friendships.

Take the real picture.

Then—then—use technology to shape, organise, polish, and share what you earned.

Because AI can help you write a post.
But it cannot give you the thorny-bush shade.
It cannot give you the breathlessness that makes you humble.
It cannot give you the scent of that flowering jalagiri.
It cannot give you the stranger who borrows your binoculars and lights up like a child.
It cannot give you the train slipping past in the morning dark and making you feel, briefly, like life is a poem.

Writing lesson #9: Tools can refine your work. Only living can supply it.

Finishing vs Failing (and the Secret Third Option)

So what did this hike teach me about writing, finishing, and failing?

Finishing sometimes means reaching the summit.
Failing sometimes means stopping before the end.
But there’s a third option most of us forget:

Choosing.

Choosing to stop without shame.
Choosing to savour without rushing.
Choosing to measure success by presence, not performance.

And oddly enough, that choice makes it more likely you’ll finish the next thing—because you didn’t turn this attempt into a story of personal inadequacy.

You turned it into a story of awareness.

Which is what good writing is, anyway.

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Local Breads and Christmas Sweet Treats in Goa

Susan Jagannath — Thu, 26 Dec 2024 02:20:03 +0000

A Search for Local Breads and Christmas Sweet Treats in Goa led us deep into the quieter heart of Goa’s Mapusa markets. Tucked away behind the loud and flashy stores with cheap clothes and plastic goods from interstate, we discovered the heart of Goan food. In the covered arena, the vibrant stalls, the heady mix of aromas, and the lively chatter created a sensory overload that makes every visit an adventure. But for those in the know, the mission is clear—get to the traditional bakery and sweet section before everything sells out by 11 a.m.

In the maze of flavors and textures, Goa’s breads and sweets tell a story of tradition and community. Let’s explore these culinary treasures that make Mapusa a paradise for food lovers.

Breads of Goan Life

Each bread in Goa has its own unique personality, shaped by the culture and tastes of the region.

Boal:
These dark, rustic discs may look unassuming, but don’t judge them by their rugged appearance. Made with coarse rice flour, boal is hearty and full of earthy flavor—a perfect companion to curries or gravies.

Bathx:
Golden, soft, and round, bathx is like the warm hug of the Goan bread family. It’s a staple at most households and a favorite for breakfast.

Poi:
If you’ve missed the sound of the poi vendor honking through village streets, you haven’t truly experienced Goa. This quintessential local bread has a chewy texture and a subtle sourdough flavor that pairs well with anything, from butter to fiery Goan sausages.

Kankonn:
Goa’s answer to bagels, kankonn are ring-shaped breads that are crisp on the outside and soft on the inside. They’re perfect for snacking or as a sidekick to your evening tea.

Sweets for Every Celebration

Goa’s sweets, especially during Christmas, are more than just desserts—they’re memories wrapped in sugar and coconut.

Doce:
A sunny delight! Made with coconut and gram, doce melts in your mouth and leaves a lingering sweetness.

Kokad:
These colorful coconut squares are festive treats that look as good as they taste—like edible confetti on your plate.

Dodol:
Also called dol dol, this sticky, dark, and gooey treat is the ultimate comfort food. Made with coconut milk, jaggery, and rice flour, it’s a dangerously addictive bite of nostalgia.

Bolinhas:
Bite-sized and crumbly, these coconut cookies are perfect companions for tea. They bring a delicate sweetness to every bite.

Pinag:
Jaggery-coated nuggets of caramel goodness, pinag is earthy, flavorful, and the ultimate energy booster.

Cakes to Savor

Goa’s cakes are a reflect the regions rich history and creative culinary flair.

Carrot Cake:
This Goan version of a classic dessert is dense, spiced, and flecked with sweet carrots. It proves that vegetables and desserts are, indeed, best friends.

Dark Fruit Cake:
This Goan version of a Christmas Cake is packed with dried fruit, with a strong punch of brandy or dark rum. Kept ready to eat after Midnight Mass, which in Goa is at Midnight sharp.

Goa’s Breads and Sweets: A Love Letter to Tradition

As you stroll through the lively Mapusa Market, these breads and sweets aren’t just food—they’re a slice of Goa’s soul. Crafted with care and bursting with flavor, they remind us why traditions are worth savoring.

So, next time you find yourself in Mapusa, take your time. Wander. Taste. Relish. And let the magic of Goa’s culinary heritage wrap you in its warm embrace.

Conclusion

The breads of Goa are more than just food; they are a testament to the state’s rich heritage and the artistry of its bakers. From the rustic charm of boal to the soft embrace of bathx, the chewy nostalgia of poi, and the crisp comfort of kankonn, each bread tells its own story, woven into the fabric of Goan life.

These humble creations are a daily reminder of the region’s cultural identity, serving as a bridge between tradition and taste. Whether you’re strolling through the lively Mapusa markets or enjoying a quiet breakfast in a Goan village, these breads bring warmth, history, and a unique flavor to every meal.

Next time you’re in Goa, take a moment to savor these treasures—not just as a meal, but as an experience. After all, there’s no better way to connect with a place than through its food.

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A Foodie’s Guide to the Camino: A Vegetarian Adventure

Susan Jagannath — Tue, 28 May 2024 05:09:53 +0000

A Vegetarian Adventure (with Eggs & Dairy)

The Camino Portugués isn’t just a historical and cultural pilgrimage; for adventurous vegetarians like yourself, it’s a delicious journey brimming with plant-based delights that incorporate eggs and dairy. We can ditch the worry about meat and seafood, because Portugal’s culinary scene offers a treasure trove of vegetarian options waiting to be explored. This guide will take you on a mouthwatering adventure through the regional specialties you can enjoy on your Camino adventure, all perfectly suited to your dietary preferences.

1. A Vegetarian Tapestry of Flavors

Portugal’s diverse landscapes are mirrored in its cuisine, and you’ll encounter distinct vegetarian specialties in each region.

Lisbon and Central Portugal: Your journey begins in Lisbon, where tempting Pastel de Nata awaits! Indulge in the creamy egg custard and flaky pastry – a vegetarian delight. Venture inland to Alentejo and savor Migas Alentejanas, a flavorful bread and vegetable stew often made with seasonal greens, garlic, and spices. Sample regional cheeses like Queijo de Azeitão, a sheep’s milk cheese with a rich, creamy texture, paired with crusty bread and a glass of vinho verde, a light and refreshing local wine.
The Portuguese Coast: Moving towards Porto, the bounty of the ocean inspires vegetarian wonders. Enjoy vegetable cataplanas, a copper pot simmering a medley of seasonal vegetables, herbs, and sometimes chickpeas,for a flavorful and satisfying meal. Don’t miss the chance to try Queijo Fresco, a fresh cheese perfect for salads or atop toasted bread.
Porto and Northern Portugal: While Porto offers the iconic Francesinha, vegetarians can rejoice! Francesinha Vegetariana, a vegetarian version packed with layers of vegetables, seitan, cheese, and a tomato-based sauce, is a delicious alternative. Northern Portugal is also known for its cured cheeses and bean stews like Feijoada de Cogumelos, a rich and hearty stew made with mushrooms, beans, and vegetables.

Embrace the Vegetarian Adventure

The Camino is the perfect excuse to explore new flavors within the vegetarian world that incorporates eggs and dairy. Don’t be afraid to venture into local cafes and restaurants, many of which cater to vegetarians with delightful options. Embrace the chance to try something new every day!

Pastelaria Culture: Portugal’s “pastelaria” culture offers a haven for vegetarians. Stop for a mid-morning espresso and a Pão de Deus (Bread of God), a sweet roll flavored with lemon and sugar. Indulge in a Queijada, a small tart filled with a creamy egg and cheese custard, or explore savory options like a Croque Monsieur – a toasted ham and cheese sandwich (vegetarian versions are readily available).
Local Markets: Immerse yourself in the sights and smells of local markets. Purchase fresh fruits and vegetables,sample regional cheeses, and pick up a loaf of crusty bread for a picnic lunch along the way. Many markets also offer vegetarian cooked food stalls, perfect for grabbing a quick and delicious bite.
Dining Out: Evenings are the perfect time to settle into a cozy restaurant and savor a vegetarian Portuguese meal. Try a Queijo Fresco salad with a drizzle of olive oil and fresh herbs, or a bowl of Sopa da Pedra, a hearty bread and vegetable soup often made with kale, potatoes, and sometimes an egg for richness. For a comforting dish, try Migas Gatas, a vegetarian version of Migas Alentejanas made with bread, vegetables, and milk.

Food and Culture: A Delicious Harmony

Food is more than just sustenance on the Camino; it’s a way to connect with Portuguese culture and traditions. Many vegetarian dishes are passed down through generations, reflecting the local way of life and the bounty of the surrounding region. Sharing a meal with fellow pilgrims or locals is a wonderful opportunity to learn about Portuguese cuisine and culture in a relaxed and social setting.

Regional Specialties: Ask restaurant owners or fellow pilgrims about regional vegetarian specialties. This is a great way to discover hidden gems and dishes you might not otherwise have encountered. Trying these specialties allows you to appreciate the unique flavors and traditions of each region you traverse.
Wine and Dine: Pair your meal with a glass of local wine for a truly immersive experience. Vinho verde pairs beautifully with salads and vegetable dishes, while Dao white wines complement richer cheese-based meals.

Savor the Journey, Savor the Flavors

The Camino is a journey for all the senses, and food is a big part of that experience. Ditch the restrictive worries and embrace the opportunity to savor the delicious vegetarian flavors Portugal has to offer, incorporating the wonderful world of eggs and dairy. From fresh produce by the coast to comforting cheese-based dishes in the interior.

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A Foodie’s Guide to the Portuguese Camino: Beyond Pastel de Nata

Susan Jagannath — Tue, 28 May 2024 05:02:04 +0000

The Camino Portugués is a pilgrimage route steeped in history and culture, but for adventurous foodies, it’s also a delicious journey of discovery. While the iconic Pastel de Nata, a flaky pastry filled with creamy egg custard, is a must-try, Portugal’s culinary scene offers a treasure trove of flavors waiting to be explored.

And yes, even our vegetarian cohort loved that you could get vegetarian food in Portugal!

This guide will take you on a mouthwatering adventure through the regional specialties you’ll encounter on your Camino adventure.

A Regional Tapestry of Flavors

Portugal is a land of diverse landscapes, and this is reflected in its cuisine. As you walk the Camino, you’ll traverse distinct regions, each with its own unique set of ingredients and traditional dishes.

Lisbon and Central Portugal: Your journey begins in Lisbon, where you can indulge in the quintessential Pastel de Nata and its close cousin, the Pastel de Belém, with its slightly caramelized crust. Venture inland to Alentejo and savor rich stews simmered for hours with local wines. Sample cured meats and cheeses paired with crusty bread and a glass of vinho verde, a light and refreshing local wine.
The Portuguese Coast: Moving towards Porto, the bounty of the ocean takes center stage. Freshly caught seafood features prominently in stews, grilled dishes, and cataplanas, a copper pot simmering a medley of seafood, vegetables, and herbs. Don’t miss the opportunity to try percebes, goose barnacles prized for their unique salty flavor.
Porto and Northern Portugal: As you reach Porto, the legendary Francesinha awaits. This savory sandwich overflows with layers of sausage, steak, ham, and melted cheese, a decadent and hearty reward for your pilgrimage efforts. Northern Portugal is also known for its cured sausages like chouriço and farinheira, perfect for a light lunch with a crusty baguette.

Embrace the Culinary Adventure

The Camino is an excellent opportunity to step outside your comfort zone and explore new flavors. Don’t be afraid to venture into local cafes and restaurants, many of which offer daily specials showcasing fresh, seasonal ingredients. Embrace the chance to try something new every day, whether it’s a regional cheese you’ve never heard of or a local take on a familiar dish.

Pastelaria Culture: Portugal has a strong “pastelaria” culture, with cafes serving an array of pastries and breads throughout the day. Stop for a mid-morning espresso and a Pastel de Belém, or indulge in a Bolo de Mel (honey cake) for a touch of sweetness.
Local Markets: Immerse yourself in the sights and smells of local markets. Purchase fresh fruits and vegetables, sample regional cheeses and cured meats, and pick up a loaf of crusty bread for a picnic lunch along the way. Many markets also offer cooked food stalls, perfect for grabbing a quick and delicious bite.
Dining Out: Evenings are the perfect time to settle into a cozy restaurant and savor a hearty Portuguese meal. Cozido à Portuguesa, a stew packed with meats and vegetables, is a comforting dish perfect for cooler evenings. For a lighter option, try Arroz de Pato, a comforting duck rice dish with a rich and flavorful saffron broth.

Food and Culture: A Delicious Marriage

Food is more than just sustenance on the Camino; it’s a way to connect with Portuguese culture and traditions. Many dishes are passed down through generations, reflecting the local way of life and the bounty of the surrounding region. Sharing a meal with fellow pilgrims or locals is a wonderful opportunity to learn about Portuguese cuisine and culture in a relaxed and social setting.

Regional Specialties: Ask restaurant owners or fellow pilgrims about regional specialties. This is a great way to discover hidden gems and dishes you might not otherwise have encountered. Trying these specialties allows you to appreciate the unique flavors and traditions of each region you traverse.
Wine and Dine: Portugal boasts a long history of winemaking, and each region produces its own unique varietals. Pair your meal with a glass of local wine for a truly immersive culinary experience. Vinho verde, a light and refreshing white wine from the north, pairs beautifully with seafood dishes, while Douro Valley reds complement richer stews and meats.

4. Savor the Journey, Savor the Flavors

The Camino is a journey for all the senses, and food is a big part of that experience. Ditch the restrictive diets and embrace the opportunity to savor the delicious flavors Portugal has to offer. From fresh seafood by the coast to hearty stews in the interior, each region offers a unique culinary adventure.

So, relax, indulge, and let the food be another source of inspiration and enjoyment on your Camino pilgrimage.

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Explore the Hidden Gems of the Portuguese Camino

Susan Jagannath — Thu, 23 May 2024 06:03:48 +0000

Hidden Gems along the Camino Portuguese

While Santiago de Compostela typically draws pilgrims along the famed Camino Frances, the Caminho Portugués has hidden treasures waiting to be discovered by those willing to venture beyond the well-trodden paths. If you dive deeper into the heart of Portugal, you can explore the Hidden Gems of the Portuguese Camino and discover charming villages and historical landmarks that often go unnoticed by pilgrims because some are focused solely on reaching the cathedral.

Let me will be your guide on this journey off the beaten path as I share detours that lead to quaint villages boasting cobblestone streets, traditional houses adorned with colorful flowers, and welcoming cafes serving up local specialties. Imagine stumbling upon a hidden gem like the São Francisco Church in Barcelos, a flamboyant Baroque masterpiece with a richly-carved gilded interior. Marvel at the intricate woodwork and the stunning azulejos (hand-painted tiles) depicting religious scenes and historical figures.

A Pilgrimage Through Time: Medieval Marvels and Picturesque Villages

The Central Way isn’t just a trudge through Portuga because it’s also a journey through time. For example, a short detour from Barcelos leads you to the imposing Ponte de Lima bridge. This Roman bridge, constructed in the 1st century AD, is a testament to Portugal’s rich history. Stroll across the bridge, taking in the views of the Lima River and soaking in the atmosphere of this charming town.

For a taste of medieval life, consider a detour to Guimarães, the “Cradle City” of Portugal. This historic town is where Afonso Henriques, the first King of Portugal, declared the country’s independence in the 12th century. Wander through the well-preserved medieval streets, marvel at the imposing Guimarães Castle, and explore the Paço dos Duques (Ducal Palace), a stunning example of Romanesque architecture. A visit to the Guimarães Museum will immerse you in the city’s rich history and cultural heritage.

Secret Viewpoints and Natural Wonders

The hidden gems extend beyond charming villages and historical landmarks.

For a truly unique experience, take a detour to the Serra da Estrela mountain range, the “roof of Portugal.” Here, you’ll find Penhas da Saúde, the highest point in mainland Portugal, offering stunning vistas of the surrounding mountains and valleys. On a clear day, you might even be able to see the Atlantic Ocean shimmering in the distance. Hikers can explore the numerous trails that wind through the Serra da Estrela Natural Park, while nature lovers can enjoy the abundant flora and fauna, including rare birds of prey and wild boars.

Why do I not add the Spiritual Variant? Because it is in Spain, but more on that later!

Unveiling Hidden Gems: Beyond the Main Route

The Central Way offers even more to discover if you’re willing to stray slightly further from the main path. Here are a few hidden gems:

The Sanctuary of Bom Jesus do Monte: This stunning pilgrimage site near Braga involves a dramatic ascent via a baroque stairway adorned with statues depicting the Passion of Christ. At the top, you’ll be rewarded with breathtaking views of the surrounding Braga region.
The Castro de Santa Luzia: Although the church and basilica are magnificent, History buffs will also appreciate this archaeological site near Viana do Castelo.
The Mata Nacional de Buçaco: This sprawling forest near Coimbra offers a welcome respite from the Camino path. Explore the serene trails, discover hidden waterfalls, and marvel at the unique flora and fauna within this protected area.
The Paiva Walkways: For a truly adventurous detour, consider the Paiva Walkways near Castelo de Paiva. This network of wooden walkways suspended over the Paiva River offers breathtaking views and a unique perspective of the surrounding gorge.

Embrace the Local Flavor: Food, Wine, and Cultural Delights

Beyond historical sites and scenic wonders, the Camino offers a chance to delve into the heart of Portuguese culture through its food and wine. Stop by in Porto for a port tour, and I’m talking not nautically, but of the Port wine that takes its name from Porto. Or you can even take a cruise down the Douro and visit the wineries and vineyards.

Sample Francesinha, a hearty sandwich filled with meat, sausage, and melted cheese of Porto, and Arroz de Pato (duck rice), a flavorful regional dish.

For those of you with a sweet tooth, don’t forget to try Pastel de Nata (custard tarts), a national treasure of Portugal, developed by monks who were sustainable not wanting to waste food.

Embracing the Detours: A More Fulfilling Camino Experience

Therefore, if you’re after an experience beyond the guidebooks,vbthis is what you should do. Embrace the detours, savor the local flavors, and soak in the breathtaking scenery. In this way, you will be sure to Explore the Hidden Gems of the Portuguese camino. The Camino Portugués has so much more to offer than just a path to Santiago. It’s a treasure trove waiting to be explored. So, with a little planning you can transform your Camino pilgrimage into a unique and unforgettable journey of discovery. And so what if you get a bit lost sometimes? Isn’t that the way to be found?

Look at it this way, detours are not just distractions. Look at them as an integral part of the Camino experience. They allow you to connect with the local people, discover hidden gems, and create lasting memories. So, don’t be afraid to veer off the beaten path and explore the magic that awaits you beyond the main route.

Bom Caminho!

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The Stories Behind Every Recipe at Christmas

Susan Jagannath — Mon, 20 Dec 2021 06:26:51 +0000

The Stories behind the Christmas treats

Christmas is a time for family, both the one you are born into and the ones you choose. Christmas at our house is a time of giving thanks, plenty, togetherness and love, and in earlier days, hordes of visitors. From mid morning to late night, we were greeting and being greeted, and sharing our safely hoarded treats with our non-christian friends.

As a military family for several generations, every Christmas could be in a different place, and the various makings of traditional treats may or may not have been available. So we began shopping and sending for foods, and storing them from October or earlier because we knew that come Christmas Day, every military friend would descend on our home en masse to wish us A Happy Christmas, and enjoy the treats that we cooked only at this time of the year. And if you were a new(ish) wife, far away from home and Mum, you learnt to depend on your friends to teach you how to cook a particular dish or treat, and how to scale it out for numbers.

Every Christmas Recipe has a name

All my recipes have a name attached to them. The name is usually the person who passed on the recipe, like Myrna’s Coconut Sweet. With just the minimum ingredients, this coconut ice is a failsafe one, that always sets, and sometimes it may be pink, or sometimes if I was distracted and burnt a couple of strands, it would be golden brown. And this recipe is from when we were in a base called Yelahanka, nestled in coconut groves and surrounded by shining pay fields. That’s a memory now, Yelahanka is now a suburb of Bangalore on the way to the airport. And every time we arrive or leave, we crane or necks to peer into the base, that is in itself little changed.

The Rum Punch is definitely my Dad’s, I can still see him taking over the kitchen and whipping up the punch, complete with splitting the milk into it and then straining it though a fine muslin cloth. The last time he did this was in Udhampur, an army base in the foothills of the Himalayas, before he retired. We imagined long holidays with Mum and Dad in their retirement, with lots of Christmasses, but it was not to be. Within a couple of years of retiring, before he could settle into a peaceful retirement, he was gone.

After many years of baking or steaming rich fruity plum puddings, we came to Australia, and here, it is much too hot for that – as Christmas is in the midst of a burning hot summer. And so I switched to Kulfi – an Indian icecream, and for this, I had to call my sister Maureen, and ask her for her easy magnificent recipe, all made with ingredients available in Australia.

A Christmas Meal That’s As Unique As You Are!

Christmas meals are always a great time to get together but if you’re in a multiracially blended family, the best way to make your holiday meal feel unique is by considering what your family’s various cultures have to offer.

Who knew I would love roast potatoes and Yorkshire puddings? Only after my son in law Simon took over Christmas one year, and to tell the truth, I was a bit nervous, so I carried along my special biriyani. And there is a story about that biriyani too.. I call it Meena’s mother-in-laws recipe, because that is whose recipe it is, although I never met the lady. And talking of mothers in law, the accompaniment to biriyani is always a flaming red burning hot chutney with a flavour of honey, called, Mother in laws tongue – hot and sharp, and yet sweet and full of love. The trouble is that it always leads to the debate – is it a vegetable, mineral or sweet? what do you think?

On a practical note, I start prepping for the meal, at least a week in advance now, and sometimes earlier. Here is a little printable that you can use to make sure nothing is forgotten.

The Stories I Shared with You

I cannot really invite you all home for Christmas dinner, but I shared something much more precious with you, the stories that live on, even after the dinner is eaten.

What stories do you have to share?

A Dash of Adventure

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Chocolate and Churros – Revisited 5 Years Later

admin — Sat, 24 Apr 2021 11:50:49 +0000

NOTE: Who would imagine that 5 years have gone since I walked this route on this exact day – that is a SURPRISE!

Day Three on the Camino Ingles was all about surprises – good surprises like churros and castles. The climb out of Pontedeume was not a good surprise, but there was a reward at the end, the little village of Mino, nestled on the mountain with views to the sea, and a railway line vanishing into the distance. On day three, we climbed over the next headland from Pontedeume, and down again all the way to Betanzos, through farmland and forest, and at Mino we turned inland towards Betanzos. This day was sunny and warm, just the type of day to life your spirits after previous damp and soggy day.

Viewing Platform in Mino

Mino

The next time I walk the Ingles, Mino is definitely going to be the night halt for me. Apart from the blindingly beautiful views, the chocolate and churros in the cafes was to die for. I could scarcely believe how good it was. The churros perfect light and melt in the mouth, and the chocolate thick and smooth like molten earth. not sweet,not runny and not a quagmire either. The look on my face is a mixture of stunned joy!!!

Chocolate and churros

About the castle

Why is there a little castle in the picture? Why not? Someone built themselves a little castle in the middle of the forest that we walked by, it was gorgeous, and another surprise, so while there was great architecture, beautiful scenery and soaring churches on Day three, thisis what I loved about Day Three. After Mino, we walked parallel to the coast, before turning inland after crossing the river, and heading into lush green forests filled with birdsong and trickling streams. Fortunately there was no rain! While it was a steady climb until about 10 kms from Betanzos, it was not as steep as the climb out of Pntedeume, and this time, we stopped whenever we could for cafe con leche,

Alas, today was also the day that my backpack split, and I had to use the trusty old nappy pins to secure it, and prevent further tearing.

If you want to read all about the more important stuff, like how you can walk the Camino in just 6 days, check out my book.

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How to travel to Uttarakhand during COVID times – real life experience

Susan Jagannath — Mon, 17 Aug 2020 09:09:44 +0000

The intrepid owner of Cafe Buransh in Sari village gives this account of reaching Sari Village from Kerala in August. This makes a succinct how-to of all the requirements to travel to Uttarakhand from within India.However, requirements change all the time, so please check before you plan to go.

How to get from Kerala to Uttarakhand

Here are the details as recounted by Rajani Muralidharan.

1) Get an RTPCR test done 72 hours before my arrival date. I took the flight from Kochi via Bangalore to Dehradun on 10th Aug.

2) The lab emailed me the test results (negative) in 24 hours.

3) I then applied for the epass – http://smartcitydehradun.uk.gov.in/pravasi-registration
The epass requires you to upload documents depending on the purpose of your travel. Because I was traveling back to my property in Sari village, Rudraprayag I chose the ‘Work’ option.

Docs uploaded:

1) Negative Test result
2) ID (copy of Aadhar)
3) Letter of authorization from my company confirming my need to travel for work.

4) Although, I was visiting my own property I made a self reservation for 21 days. I wasn’t asked to show this doc at any checkpoints, probably cause I was traveling for work.

Note: For tourists, a confirmed reservation is a must before you start your travel.

4) I got a call from the Covid helpdesk the same day I applied for the epass, to verify my information. They also asked whether I was experiencing any fever/flu related symptoms.

5) The airport checks were quite straightforward. Contactless scanning of boarding pass and showing your IDs. Bags disinfected. Social Distancing seatings, head shields and masks etc.

6) As I had landed in Bangalore( from Kerala) I was asked to show my epass before boarding my connection flight to Dehradun, from Bangalore.

7) Upon landing at Jolly Grant Airport in Dehra Dun, we were asked to fill in a form. Personal info, address of destination etc.

8) The counters were set outside the airport, divided district wise. The ones going to Rishikesh, Haridwar and Dehradun were required to take a swab test right there. I cannot comment on whether they are required to quarantine – Institutional or home.

9) My check at the counter for Rudraprayag was again very straightforward. I had arranged for a cab from the village to pick me up. I had also taken an entry permission from the panchayat a week ago. I am now in quarantine for 2 weeks at the property. I can’t complain. The photos will tell you why. 🙂

10) There is again, a police and a doctor verification in Agastyamuni. You may be asked to produce all your docs again here.

I hope these help. I understand I was lucky to have a smooth entry into the state and reach my property just fine. Please be prepared for confusion and remember this situation is new for all of us and it is best to work as a team with the officials, instead of acting all self-entitled and impatient.

Good luck, and safe travels to all. 😊

Thank you Rajani for sharing this information, and do remember to support Cafe Buransh when you can travel safely.

Important Note: Do not go if you have the slightest sign of cough, cold, fever or sore throat. There is only basic medical help, and you do not want to infect the local population.

Check with your doctor before you go.

Download the free basic guide to get all the tips and hiking safely in the post-pandemic era.

The Valley of Flowers has not opened as yet! Please check before you go!

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Valley of Flowers – Post Pandemic Safety on the Trek

Susan Jagannath — Fri, 22 May 2020 09:40:54 +0000

Namaste! Watch this video guide on how to trek safely and enjoy the Himalayas. Keep yourself safe and keep the Himalayas safe.

Important: Follow the Uttarakhand State notifications on when travel to the destinations mentioned in this blog and video are open for visitors.

There is one place you must trek in the monsoon downpours amidst the swirling clouds of the upper Himalaya. Don’t let the name fool you, the Valley of Flowers National Park in Uttarakhand, bordered by Nepal and Tibet, in the far north of India is a once in a lifetime deal. And post-pandemic there are many more things to consider.

Important Note: Do not go if you have the slightest sign of cough, cold, fever or sore throat. There is only basic medical help, and you do not want to infect the local population.

Check with your doctor before you go.

Download the free basic guide to get all the tips and hiking safely in the post-pandemic era.

Negative RT_PCR report is mandatory for Uttarakhand! Please check before you go!

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What happened to my Sangria?

Susan Jagannath — Fri, 13 Sep 2019 02:59:20 +0000

Yes, Spain has great food and drink, but you probably have some misconceptions and myths.

Let’s look at the famous trinity of Sangria, Paella and Churros. Everyone knows all about those, right. Wrong. Time to bust some food myths.

Sangria

Spaniards drink sangria sometimes. A giggly gaggle of friends may order a couple of jugs at a bar for a bit of fruity fun. However a lot of bars don’t make alcoholic sangria ( like with brandy), and they rarely soakthe fruit overnight.

What you may get in a bar Spain as sangria, is red wine, diluted with slightly sweetened fizzy drink, with fresh fruit afloat in the bubbles. To drink like a local, ask for tinto de verano, meaning summer red wine, slightly sweetened soda, lemonade or even Fanta, ice, and a slice of lemon.

Mmm, that’s refreshing and makes a change from the una Clara con limon.

Paella

I was bitterly disappointed the first time I had it Santiago de Compostela. My mistake, Galicia is not the place for paella, Northern Spain is the place for hot soups, and sturdy meat dishes, not a delicate Paella.

Paella is a regional dish. The place for good authentic paella is Valencia, a rice growing area on the east coast. Elsewhere you could get a horrible mixture of half cooked rice, and you wonder why bother, especially if you are Indian and can tell the difference between pulao, khichadi and biriyani.

Another mistake, don’t eat paella for dinner. Paella is meant for lunch, and don’t drink it with Sangria.

Churros

Jun [CC BY-SA 2.0 (https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/2.0)]

What can go wrong with ordering Churros for dessert? Oops Churros are never a dessert in Spain. These exquisitely airy, elegant long, fried dough sticks paired with silken thick, barely sweet chocolate is never ever eaten after dinner as Postre.

Be like a local and eat it for breakfast, to quell the mid-morning or afternoon munchies. Or like me, eat it after a 10 km uphill walk from Pontedeume to Mino in the pouring rain. See Photo above.

It is the correct etiquette to plunk them in your coffee, or in your chocolate and then crunch up the slightly salty stick with your darkly handsome chocolate.

May your churros be crunchy and your chocolate utterly gooey.

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