My personal reflection for Easter week

For most of my life I worked, I looked after my kids, I caught the bus. Mostly mundane things. But once in a while something happens that lodges in you permanently — like a splinter of cobblestone you can’t shake from your shoe. For me, that thing was Jerusalem.

It is Easter week again, and I keep going back there in my head. This year, the Holy Places are closed to most worshippers — Iran has been targeting Jerusalem with missiles, and it took considerable effort and determination by church authorities to have the sites opened even for priests to celebrate services. The public cannot enter. The Church of the Holy Sepulchre, the Via Dolorosa, the Garden of Gethsemane — places that are normally packed and noisy and gloriously, stubbornly alive with pilgrims from every corner of the world — are quiet in a way they have rarely been quiet in two thousand years of continuous worship.

I find that almost unbearable to imagine. So let me tell you what those places felt like when I walked them. Because they are real, and they deserve to be remembered as real — not just as names in headlines, but as stones underfoot and cold air in a chapel and three nuns racing up a staircase.

The Chapel of the Whipping

At the second station on the Via Dolorosa there are two chapels, and I ducked into the Chapel of the Flagellation to wait for the procession. It was unearthly cold — the kind of cold that has nothing to do with the weather outside, that seems to come from the stones themselves. I lasted about two minutes before my usual sneezing fit started and I had to retreat into the Jerusalem sunshine. But before I left I noticed something in the corner: a game like noughts and crosses, carved crudely into a flagstone. Roman soldiers scratched it there, presumably to pass the time. This was the courtyard where Jesus was stripped and whipped, and someone had been bored enough to carve a game. The mundane and the momentous, occupying exactly the same stone. Jerusalem is full of that.

The Handprint

Further along, at the fifth station, there is a hollow in the wall where tradition says Jesus rested his hand. It is worn so smooth now — by so many millions of hands over so many centuries — that you can no longer touch it. You can only look at it. There is a barrier, and you stand before it, and you look.

I find that oddly more powerful, not less. The hollow is there because of accumulated devotion. Human longing wore it out. It crossed a threshold from relic into something more fragile — something that now has to be protected from the very love that created it. There’s a whole theology in that, if you want one.

My feet and legs were aching, my ankles twisted frequently on the picturesque cobblestones — and yes, my heart was full of joy as I entered each holy place. 

Follow those Nuns!

Jerusalem teaches you to follow your instincts — and occasionally, to follow complete strangers. On the Friday I spotted three nuns from Mother Teresa’s Missionaries of Charity racing up a flight of stairs with most un-nunnish speed, calling excitedly to each other. I did what any sensible pilgrim would do: I followed them. At the top, I got my first and closest view of the Dome of the Rock, looking westward from the east — the Dome magnificent and gleaming, the gardens around it rather less so, nothing at all like the Mughal gardens of Kashmir. But the Dome itself — yes. Worth every stair, and worth following three excited nuns to find it.

The Temple Mount itself was closed to non-Muslims that weekend, being Shabbat. The closest I got was the Western Wall below — no cameras, no phones allowed. A friend had suggested I sneak a photo on my phone. I did not. Some prohibitions feel right to observe, even when you could get away with breaking them.

Church of the Holy Sepulchre

The Church of the Holy Sepulchre is huge, dark, and not at all what you expect — no clean lines or contemplative hush. It’s robust, muscular, crowded, contested, beautiful. The stairs to Golgotha are worn so smooth I had to grip the rail. In the tomb itself — tiny, holding maybe five people — you get a moment, just a moment to touch the stone, and then the Orthodox heavies move you along. I had no complaint. You don’t need long. You just need to be there once.

I didn’t take photos during the Stations of the Cross on the Friday afternoon. A camera felt like the wrong tool for that particular kind of attention. Some things need to be received without the instinct to document. I say this as someone who now earns a living from words — there are moments that resist capture, and the right response is simply to be in them.

This Easter, those same Stations are being walked by priests alone. The crowds of ordinary folk from every part of the world — the nuns and the pilgrims and the Russians cutting the queue and the woman selling fresh greens at the station where Veronica wiped the face of Jesus — are absent. It took real determination by church leaders just to get the doors open for clergy. The public remains outside. I cannot quite take that in.

What does all of this have to do with now — with this Easter, this grandchild to be collected from her other home, this garden that refuses to wait, this manuscript someone is trusting me to help them finish?

Everything, I think. The Jerusalem I walked was a safe, warm, astonishingly friendly place — full of ordinary people going about ordinary lives between extraordinary stones. That place is still real, even when missiles make it unreachable and headlines make it unrecognisable. The priests celebrating Easter in those emptied churches this week are holding something on behalf of all of us who have been there, and all of us who hoped one day to go.

That hollow in the stone at the fifth station — worn past touching now, reduced to something you can only witness — keeps coming back to me. And so does that soldiers’ game scratched into the flagstone, and three nuns in white and blue saris sprinting up a staircase. The sacred and the absurd, constantly overlapping. That’s Jerusalem. That’s also, if I’m honest, most of a life of faith.

It’s a real place, with real people, real history, and real problems — and somehow, stubbornly, it is warm and full of grace.

So this Easter I’ll say my prayers in my ordinary faraway suburb, light a candle in a perfectly normal parish, and probably also weed something and feed someone. I’ll pray for Jerusalem — for the priests marking Easter in near-empty churches, for the city’s people, for some kind of peace that currently feels very far away. And I’ll carry the memory of those steep hills, those worn stones, that cold little chapel, those sprinting nuns. The places stayed. It is enough.

If you’re planning to walk the Camino de Invierno, you’ll want to look beyond the main markers to discover the unique experiences that make this route special. Scattered along the path are historic sites, artistic surprises, and spiritual corners that reveal the true heart of this lesser-traveled Camino.

Here are seven hidden gems you won’t want to miss.

Street Art of Quiroga

Quiroga’s colourful murals transform ordinary walls into vibrant stories. These artworks reflect the town’s identity, traditions, and river heritage — a creative contrast to the Camino’s ancient surroundings. Don’t rush through this town; take time to explore the alleys and discover its modern artistic soul.

New Albergue at the Church at Diomondi 

Next to the beautiful Romanesque Church of Diomondi stands a newly opened albergue — peaceful, quiet, and spiritually grounding. Staying here lets you sleep right beside a piece of history, surrounded by forests, stone walls, and centuries of pilgrim footsteps.

Five Ways at the Capilla dos Remedios

This tiny chapel marks the meeting point of five ancient paths. It’s a special place to pause, breathe, and reflect. Many pilgrims take a moment here to light a candle or simply appreciate the sense of crossroads — both literal and symbolic.

Castillo Cornatel near Villavieja

Perched dramatically on a ridge, Castillo Cornatel once belonged to the Knights Templar. Its soaring walls and panoramic views are worth the detour. You’ll feel the medieval spirit as you explore its battlements and look over the valleys the castle once protected.

The castle was used as a romantic setting for one of the  first Spanish historical novels, El Señor de Bembibre, 2 written by the writer Enrique Gil y Carrasco. 

Old-Fashioned Windmill near A Eirexe

A charming old windmill stands quietly near A Eirexe, surrounded by fields and sky. It’s a simple, serene stop — perfect for photos, a short break, or imagining the rural life that shaped these lands long before the Camino was walked by pilgrims.

Ancient Roman Bridge with Inscriptions

One of the most magical finds along this route is a Roman bridge carved with ancient inscriptions. Smooth stone, worn by time, connects you to travellers who crossed centuries before you — warriors, merchants, and pilgrims alike.

Church of Our Lady of Fatima at A Rua

A peaceful church devoted to Our Lady of Fatima greets pilgrims in A Rúa. Its quiet interior, soft candlelight, and gentle space make it a perfect spot for reflection before continuing into the vineyards of Valdeorras.

Conclusion

These hidden gems showcase the true beauty of the Camino de Invierno — a route rich with history, mystery, and unexpected treasures. Whether you’re a first-time pilgrim or a seasoned walker, these spots will deepen your connection to the journey and leave you with unforgettable memories.

A New Book is here

And you will find out more about these gems in that book, as well as more of our personal encounters.

Hidden Gems along the Camino Portuguese

While Santiago de Compostela typically draws pilgrims along the famed Camino Frances, the Caminho Portugués has hidden treasures waiting to be discovered by those willing to venture beyond the well-trodden paths. If you dive deeper into the heart of Portugal, you can explore the Hidden Gems of the Portuguese Camino and discover charming villages and historical landmarks that often go unnoticed by pilgrims because some are focused solely on reaching the cathedral.

Let me will be your guide on this journey off the beaten path as I share detours that lead to quaint villages boasting cobblestone streets, traditional houses adorned with colorful flowers, and welcoming cafes serving up local specialties. Imagine stumbling upon a hidden gem like the São Francisco Church in Barcelos, a flamboyant Baroque masterpiece with a richly-carved gilded interior. Marvel at the intricate woodwork and the stunning azulejos (hand-painted tiles) depicting religious scenes and historical figures.

A Pilgrimage Through Time: Medieval Marvels and Picturesque Villages

The Central Way isn’t just a trudge through Portuga because it’s also a journey through time. For example, a short detour from Barcelos leads you to the imposing Ponte de Lima bridge. This Roman bridge, constructed in the 1st century AD, is a testament to Portugal’s rich history. Stroll across the bridge, taking in the views of the Lima River and soaking in the atmosphere of this charming town.

For a taste of medieval life, consider a detour to Guimarães, the “Cradle City” of Portugal. This historic town is where Afonso Henriques, the first King of Portugal, declared the country’s independence in the 12th century. Wander through the well-preserved medieval streets, marvel at the imposing Guimarães Castle, and explore the Paço dos Duques (Ducal Palace), a stunning example of Romanesque architecture. A visit to the Guimarães Museum will immerse you in the city’s rich history and cultural heritage.

Secret Viewpoints and Natural Wonders

The hidden gems extend beyond charming villages and historical landmarks.

For a truly unique experience, take a detour to the Serra da Estrela mountain range, the “roof of Portugal.” Here, you’ll find Penhas da Saúde, the highest point in mainland Portugal, offering stunning vistas of the surrounding mountains and valleys. On a clear day, you might even be able to see the Atlantic Ocean shimmering in the distance. Hikers can explore the numerous trails that wind through the Serra da Estrela Natural Park, while nature lovers can enjoy the abundant flora and fauna, including rare birds of prey and wild boars.

Why do I not add the Spiritual Variant? Because it is in Spain, but more on that later!

Unveiling Hidden Gems: Beyond the Main Route

The Central Way offers even more to discover if you’re willing to stray slightly further from the main path. Here are a few hidden gems:

• The Sanctuary of Bom Jesus do Monte: This stunning pilgrimage site near Braga involves a dramatic ascent via a baroque stairway adorned with statues depicting the Passion of Christ. At the top, you’ll be rewarded with breathtaking views of the surrounding Braga region.
• The Castro de Santa Luzia: Although the church and basilica are magnificent, History buffs will also appreciate this archaeological site near Viana do Castelo.
• The Mata Nacional de Buçaco: This sprawling forest near Coimbra offers a welcome respite from the Camino path. Explore the serene trails, discover hidden waterfalls, and marvel at the unique flora and fauna within this protected area.
• The Paiva Walkways: For a truly adventurous detour, consider the Paiva Walkways near Castelo de Paiva. This network of wooden walkways suspended over the Paiva River offers breathtaking views and a unique perspective of the surrounding gorge.

Embrace the Local Flavor: Food, Wine, and Cultural Delights

Beyond historical sites and scenic wonders, the Camino offers a chance to delve into the heart of Portuguese culture through its food and wine. Stop by in Porto for a port tour, and I’m talking not nautically, but of the Port wine that takes its name from Porto. Or you can even take a cruise down the Douro and visit the wineries and vineyards.

Sample Francesinha, a hearty sandwich filled with meat, sausage, and melted cheese of Porto, and Arroz de Pato (duck rice), a flavorful regional dish.

For those of you with a sweet tooth, don’t forget to try Pastel de Nata (custard tarts), a national treasure of Portugal, developed by monks who were sustainable not wanting to waste food.

Embracing the Detours: A More Fulfilling Camino Experience

Therefore, if you’re after an experience beyond the guidebooks,vbthis is what you should do. Embrace the detours, savor the local flavors, and soak in the breathtaking scenery. In this way, you will be sure to Explore the Hidden Gems of the Portuguese camino. The Camino Portugués has so much more to offer than just a path to Santiago. It’s a treasure trove waiting to be explored. So, with a little planning you can transform your Camino pilgrimage into a unique and unforgettable journey of discovery. And so what if you get a bit lost sometimes? Isn’t that the way to be found?

Look at it this way, detours are not just distractions. Look at them as an integral part of the Camino experience. They allow you to connect with the local people, discover hidden gems, and create lasting memories. So, don’t be afraid to veer off the beaten path and explore the magic that awaits you beyond the main route.

Bom Caminho!

Be the first to read the book!

Join the launch team of the upcoming book. I would love to share the early drafts, bonuses and general experience of writing the book about our camino. For an author the journey is not over until the book is written.

The Camino Reopens to Vaccinated Pilgrims from Specified Countries

I take any opportunity to celebrate the Camino. More and more news as Spain opens up cautiously – so even though I cannot personally walk, I have updated the additional material in The Camino Ingles: Six Days to Santiago with information that peregrinos need to walk a changed Camino. You can find all the additional content for la nueva normalidad right here on the blog, or you can buy the book.

Learn some new Spanish Words

Learning some simple Spanish can be the best way to prepare for your camino and will allow you to connect more to the experience. To do this, my friend Maria Seco has provided my readers with an additional worksheet of words that you never thought you would need to know. Pandemia is kind of obvious but do you know your Toque de queda from your Cierre perimetral? Not knowing these could result in a hefty Multa. 

In other news

The lockdowns are easing in India, and people are beginning to think of hiking in the Indian Himalayas again. However be aware that Uttarakhand requires a negative RT-PCR test, and you would be well served by checking government websites. Again, these have all been updated in the additional material for my book, The Valley of Flowers. 

I also uploaded some travel content from long long ago – almost my first ever blog posts – about my travel to Israel. Take a look, but be kind. This is really long ago, and not tidied up! You will also find a very unflattering picture of me ;). As I said, do be kind!

Personal Stuff

Meanwhile in Australia, where we are still living a pretty marvellous free life, except that we can’t travel outside Australia, I am increasing my fitness with longish walks in the bush because it is winter and wonderfully cool – look at this picture of misty countryside from my deck.

I’m also helping others to write their own books, or at least to break the mindset that separates readers from authors – all it needs is a coach who cares and knows – just like walking and hiking, it can get tiring, but you just keep going and you will get there, like Drew did this week, with his health book Acid Reflux hitting Number One bestseller in a health category on Amazon.

If you would like that result, and even are vaguely thinking of writing a book, do get in touch with me, or come to my 90 minute workshop – 100Days 100Pages Bestseller. We generally learn a lot, and have a great time too! It is usually a half day workshop, but this time, its only 90 minutes that can change your mindset about how easy it is to become an author. Go ahead and click the button to register!