Searching for Gethsemane

Anyone seeing these magnificent churches gleaming and flashing in the spring sunlight would wonder what happened to the grim garden depicted in Mel Gibson’s Passion. This is the facade of the Church of All Nations, and above it bloom the golden onion domes of...

Getting to Gethsemane

I took the easiest route to the Mount of Olives, after a lot of map study the night before, down the Via Dolorosa towards St Stephen’s gate, or the Lion Gate. Stepping out of Jerusalem with a backpack, as I’d checked out after an excellent breakfast, I...

“Angels we have heard on high”

Angels we have heard This is the inside of the dome in the chapel at Shepherd’s Field outside Bethlehem. I liked the light pouring into the little chamber better than the murals on the walls, which were rather predictable. The quiet fields are now gardens that...

Follow those nuns!

On Friday, I saw three nuns from Mother Teresa’s Missionaries of Charity, racing up a flight of stairs with most un-nunnish speed, and calling to each other. I decided to follow them and looked out towards this – the closest view I ever had of the Dome of...

Walking the way of the Cross

At 3 pm on Fridays, a group of priests lead the Stations of the Cross over the twisting, cobbles worn smooth by thousands of years of foot traffic. I waited in the 2nd station, where there are two chapels, and the chapel of the flagellation was unearthly cold –...

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