Morning Walks in Herzliyya

I was in a hotel by the sea, with ocean views! At first I was disappointed with the flatness of the Mediterranean – for a sea so fabled in tale and art, it was acutely disappointing. But after a couple of days, a wind came up, and then there were some waves. The...

The Garden of Gethsemane

The entrance is from the side, in a steep and narrow lane that winds steeply uphill on the Mount of Olives. This was the site of the original church, just one pillar remains after repeated destruction by sundry muslim hordes..kind of same thing again and again.. This...

Getting to Gethsemane

I took the easiest route to the Mount of Olives, after a lot of map study the night before, down the Via Dolorosa towards St Stephen’s gate, or the Lion Gate. Stepping out of Jerusalem with a backpack, as I’d checked out after an excellent breakfast, I...

Jaffa – Magical by Night

On my last night in Israel, I visited the old port of Jaffa, driven there by Miki and her husband, to ensure that I saw a bit of history in Tel Aviv. It was absolutely magical by night, the Harry Potter kind of magic. The old part of the fortified city has been...

Walking the way of the Cross

At 3 pm on Fridays, a group of priests lead the Stations of the Cross over the twisting, cobbles worn smooth by thousands of years of foot traffic. I waited in the 2nd station, where there are two chapels, and the chapel of the flagellation was unearthly cold –...

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