Porto switched on all it’s charms for our days there. Love this city of books, birds and boats. To say nothing of the port.
A great jumping off point for our Camino.

Porto to Labruge. 25 kms along the sea on boardwalks.

Amazing seaviews and massive rolling waves, seahorses of gray with windblown manes.
Also more mundane lighthouses with waves crashing over .
We were lucky with the weather.

Are we there yet?

This is the day we got hit by the famous Brierley mile.
Expected walk of 11 kms became 20+.
Headed away from the blustering beach boardwalks to walk through old villages and forests of gum trees.
Here we are on the river bank Infront of Santa Clara Monastery.
In Vila de Conde we found an open functioning church.
With an altar of of blue tiles dedicated to our Lady star of the sea. Shades of the old Velankanni tile work.

Day 3- Povoa de V to Marinhas.

The Camino loves to spring magic on pilgrims..
We started off in freezing rain and wind, and by midday it was all sunshine and roses.
Dancing on the streets and Sangria with lunch.
24 kms today, but we managed. It’s getting easier.

Day 4 Esposende to Ponte de Lima.

Castles, Churches and Chicken Tikka.
Yes we found an Indian restaurant and couldn’t resist the lure of tandoori chicken.
Meanwhile stunning walk, ending with a short taxi hop from Viano do Castelo to Ponte de Lima.

Day 5 Ponte de Lima to Rubiaes

Glorious sunny day with forests, crystal clear brooks and steep clambers over the highest point of this Camino.
Also reached too late for dinner..

Day 6 – Rubiaes to Tui

Foresty bits in the beginning and a bridge to cross at Tui to exit Portugal and enter Spain.
A rather gorgeous end to the route in Portugal through ancient streets, mysterious tunnels and bad signage to emerge into the bridge and simply stroll into Espana.
The forest etc etc may be a cathedral (vague quote that’s often heard) but a cathedral is still a cathedral when it’s Tui.

Day 7- Tui to O Porrino

A hot hot day where a Galician sun beat down relentlessly..but we found a green diversion through magical woodlands with running brooks, skittering birds, and met a Camino warrior who keeps the arrows painted, and encountered a bagpiper playing Amazing Grace and Chariots of fire in the woods.

Day 8 – O Porrino to Redondela

We made it out onto the road by 7:40 am and what a difference! The cool morning start made the day.
Verdant woodlands and country lanes as we first climbed up steadily and finally plunged down a steep downhill to the River Vigo valley.
With planes overhead at short finals for landing at Vigo airport. Very exciting for these medieval pilgrims.

Day 9 – Redondela to Pontevedra

Another warm day but we loved sauntering along woods and by crystal clear rivers crossed by wooden bridges.
A short day of less than 18 kms, so looking forward to some evening wanderings in Pontevedra.
I can scarcely believe that we have only a few days left.

Day 10 – Pontevedra to Combarro

An easy, short, flat day..
Yeah right..it wasn’t. The path was up and down all the way as we wended our way from Pontevedra with its stunning mediaeval buildings to Combarro, with its stone fishing village by the sea ambience.
We took the Spiritual variant, so tomorrow is a steep hike up to Armentera.

Day 11 – Combarro to Armenteria

Confession time. I wondered whether I should post this.. but here goes.
I’ve been a bit unwell and struggling both physically and emotionally for the last couple of days. Thanks to all my awesome pilgrim companions who have been such a support to me.
So today I was unsure whether I should continue on or lie in bed feeling sorry for my aching muscles, pounding head and camino tummy travails.
This morning flitting between sleep and waking, I had a sense of someone in the room urging me on and telling me all would be well. I lay asleep with my eyes determinedly shut but there was no way I could fall asleep again. I thought it was hubby telling me to wake up but he was fast asleep and snoring ( very gently) next to me.
So I woke up slightly grumpy and opened the windows to the first flush of a summer dawn, and my ennui was gone. I was still slightly wobbly, but a quick trot down to the sea convinced me all was well.
And so I had the slowest crawliest day on the Camino. 8 kms steep uphill to Armenteria with magnificent views, towering trees ( including the ubiquitous gums), and the sound of gurgling brooks all the way.
With an end in the Monastery of Armenteria, where three little polish girls rushed up to me to tell me they had scored rooms in the albergue..( I’d met them earlier in the day and told them to hurry up if they wanted to stay in the monastery) There was such utter joy in their faces that it made the whole day worthwhile. Also I was the first ever person from India they had ever met.

Day 12 – Armenteria to Villanova de Arousa

We followed the way of stone and water down from the cool green woods of Armenteria to the sunwashed bodegas (vineyards) of the coast.
We took our time as advised by Roy Uprichard and then explored the miniature historical village that Maria Seco urged us not to overlook.
The longest day of them all 28 kms. I’m impressed with myself. My feet are less than impressed but they will get over it.
I’d think that the stage could have been Combarro- Armenteria – Barrantes. But then you miss the pilgrim blessing.

Day 13 – Pontesures to Teo

Where have the days gone?
From Villanova de Arousa to Teo we followed the Way by water with waves, wind and multiple cruceiros lining the river bank. Amazing boat trip ..yes we had tickets. Anju Agast Srivats and I are not sitting outside because we stowed away!
Then a walk through Padron( of Padron peppers,) and the Camino keeps you off the busiest of roads and through sundappled country lanes and pockets of greenery.
We are now only 15 kms on the Camino away from the Cathedral.
It’s quite common to hear there are many ways, etc., but really there is really only One Way, and enter by the narrow way. The Camino is such a practical metaphor of life.
Today we do that.. See you on Santiago de Compostela.

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